DIY

Below you will find one way of building yurts. There are countless others going back millenia. This particular design comes from my experience of climate and culture (21st-century northern New England); of family and livelihood; the available money, materials, and skills; and my particular needs over years of yurt living. Yours will differ. For decades I have put off writing these instructions because I question the wisdom of enabling folks to turn off their brains and follow blindly. But one has to start somewhere! So consider your climate, source the most appropriate (and greenest) materials, evaluate your needs and your budget, stir in your own particular set of skills, and enjoy! If your experience is anything like mine, you will not emerge unchanged.

-- Build to these specs, and when you get the rest from us, everything will fit together.

-- As time allows, we will get all parts uploaded here for all our sizes, with patterns and video instruction.

Sapling Frame: 17', 20', 25' with 6' Wall Peeled or not: your choice. Peel if using white birch, red oak, or spruce/fir. See /saplings page for more info.

Lattice Wall.

  • 2 to 2-1/2” dia. Sweep less than half the diameter.

  • Remove nubs. Rip in half on table saw. No fence. Use caution and Wear PPE. Work the wood green! Dry saplings are hard and squirrely.

  • Qty of full 82” lattice members before ripping in half: 59 (17’) or 73 (20’) or 91 (25’).

  • Also make enders: 2 pieces at 72”, 2 at 52”, 2 at 32”, and 2 at 12”.

  • Small ends up. Drill holes 10” apart. End holes are 1” from either end.

  • Drill 1/8” dia if using #21 bonded nylon twine, or at 3/16” for #550 p-cord.

  • Drill top holes 3/16” for the 8-32 x 2-1/2” machine screws that will hold up the tension cable.

  • Lattice wall will roll into a 2.5’ dia cylinder and weigh 300-800 lbs.

Rafters

  • Sweep should be less than the diameter. Rafters can wiggle but must return to where they started.

  • Remove any nubs which will abraid cover. Leave branches for hooks if desired.

  • 17’ 32 Rafters. 85” long. Tips 1-1/2” - 2”. Butts 2-1/4”.

  • 20’ 40 Rafters. 105” long. Tips 1-3/4” - 2-1/4”. Butts 2-1/2”.

  • 25’ 56 Rafters. 140” long. Tips 2” - 2-1/4”. Butts 2-3/4”.

  • Cut 1” tenons. Effective tenon length two inches.

  • With a chain saw, cut a 3/8” wide by 3/8” deep slot in bottom to accept cable, perpendicular to the bow.

Tension Cable

  • 3/16” aircraft cable. These measurements will give you 36" of overlap. Secure with 3 cable clamps.

  • 17' 55’ 10-1/4” 20' 65’ 3-3/8” 25' 80’ 11-3/4”

Sapling Frame: 14' with 5' wall.

  • 24 Rafters: 71” long. tips 1-1/2”, butts 2-1/4 to 2-1/2”. 1” tenon. Effective tenon length two inches. 3/8 wide by 3/8 deep slot in bottom (to accept cable) (use a chain saw) cut perpendicularly to any bow in the piece. Remove any nubs which will abraid cover, but leave branches for hooks if desired. Rafters can wiggle but must return to where it started.

  • Lattice: 2 to 2-1/2” dia. Pretty darn straight. Lattice members before ripping in half: 44 at 68”, 2 at 57”, 2 at 35”, 2 at 13”. Holes 11” apart, end holes 1” from either end. Drill at 1/8” dia if using #21 bonded twine. 3/16 or #550 p-cord (experiement first). Smaller ends up. Top holes drilled 3/16”. Hold up tension cable by using 8-32 x 2-1/2” machine screw

  • Tension cable: 3/16” aircraft cable. To allow for 36” of overlap, cut it at 46’ 5-1/4”. Secure with at least 3 cable clamps.

Door and Jamb

door awning:

Roof Ring


Skylight


Outer Roof Cover


Outer Wall Cover


Inner Roof Liner


Roof Insulation


Wall Insulation and Liner